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In praise of squid ink

Yesterday, along with my good friend and partner NIcholas Hastings, I slipped off for a quick lunch at the estimable Medcalf in Exmouth Market. (www.medcalfbar.co.uk)
With metronomic predictability Nick chose the steak, 'as well done as the chef is prepared to do it', I however was delighted to see that they had risotto Nero with squid on the menu. It was absolutely excellent.
Now, I fully accept that squid ink risotto is unlikely to be everybody's cup of tea. For a start the resultant black teeth cut it out as a suitable choice for a first date, or any date for that matter. It is also only fair to point out that, rather like beetroot it can give you a bit of an alarming surprise the next day. Delicacy forbids me from explaining any further.
However once you have got past that it is one of the most delicious and surprising tastes you can imagine.
Go on, be brave, give it a try.

Here's a slightly amended version of Rick Stein's recipe

Ingredients (4 people)

450g small squid
2 sachets of squid ink or cuttlefish ink (Nero di seppia) available at your local carluccios
1.2 litres fish stock
50g butter
3tbs olive oil
2 large shallots finely chopped
3 large garlic cloves finely chopped
350g risotto rice (Carnaroli or Arborio)
150ml dry white wine
3 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper


Method

Prepare the squid. Seperate the tentacles from the bodies and cut the hard bit off of the top leaving the tentacles in one piece. Cut down one side of the squid body and score lightly on the inside, then cut into strips and put to one side.

Bring the stock to the boil and then turn to a very very low simmer

Heat half of the butter and 1 tbs of oil in a heavy saucepan. Add the shallots and garlic and cook gently until soft but not browned (about 10 minutes)

Now stir in the rice so that all the grains get well coated in the oil and butter. Add the wine and simmer over a low heat for a few minutes until it has almost all disappeared. Add a ladleful of stock and simmer stirring frequently, until it has all disappeared.

Continue to add the stock a ladle at a time, stirring, until it has all been used and the rice is creamy and tender but still with a little bite - al dente. This should take 20-25 minutes.

Take it off the heat stir in the rest of the butter, put the lid on and leave to stand whilst you cook the squid.

Heat the rest of the oil in a frying pan, add the squid and fry it over a high heat for 1 1/2 minutes

Season the rice with salt and pepper, stir in the chopped parsley and then spoon into bowls artfully pacing some of the squid on top of each bowl. Serve straight away

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